Part two: A stolen sandwich and art

Click to read Part one: A palace and a hostel.


J woke up after the time we had agreed to meet in the lobby. We had planned plenty of time, so I was content to let him sleep off as much jetlag as possible. Besides that, I wasn’t confident which bed was his. With those curtains, what if I reached in and poked the wrong man? I sneaked a snack from our stash in the communal refrigerator and then noticed that the second half of the sandwich was missing. Who would have nabbed a half-eaten sandwich? I wondered, pensive. I passed the time answering messages and chatting with a Lithuanian lady who had broken her phone at the beginning of her two week trip. 

Eventually, J came out to the lobby, looking much brighter than the night before, but still sleepy around the edges. He confessed to waking up in the wee hours of the morning to eat the rest of the sandwich. Mystery solved. 

The Puerta del Sol was on our way to breakfast and the museum, so we stopped to get our picture taken under the iconic bear. Because I am several inches taller than J, but our families didn’t know how many, we decided to exaggerate our height difference. I stood on my tiptoes and J bent his knees. The camera snapped and with a little cropping, our photo was ready to send. 

“Quite the height difference!” commented my sister with a laughing emoji. 

“Yes, it’s something to get used to,” I beamed back at her.

“I do believe he comes a little higher than your elbow…”

I guess we’d overdone it. 🙂 

Our breakfast was less than remarkable, but the Museo del Prado, the renowned art museum of Madrid, made up for it. We spent the entire morning there, wandering and wandering and still covering just over half before we were too exhausted to continue. I loved enjoying the paintings together, studying them long enough to point out things to each other. Sometimes, we laughed. Sometimes, we stood in awe. Sometimes our wonder was more of the skeptical type. We both agreed that we’d rather fully enjoy a few works of art than see everything at breakneck speed.

We attempted lunch but weren’t hungry enough to justify spending 50+€ on a paella for two. We thanked the hostess and ducked back out on the street where we found a grocery store that sold prepared salads. We took our salads to a grassy boulevard and sat on a bench to eat and bolster ourselves for another tour. 

The National Library of Spain

This time, we toured the National Library of Spain. We listened to an audio guide on my phone and after a strange encounter with the guard who seemed reluctant to understand my Spanish until I doubted that I was even speaking it, we toured the rest of the library unbothered. 

glass palace in Madrid's Retiro Park

Back at Retiro Park, we found the glass palace. Then, we sat in the grass and watched the carefree groups of people strolling by until we decided we should meander back for some supper and our hostel. We ate a seafood paella in a corner of a hopping restaurant, growing sleepier as the minutes ticked by. It would be an early bedtime, for sure.

The next morning, we were both up and ready to leave before we had planned to be. Our trip down to Almería was smooth. We traveled from bus to train to bus–two extra buses due to construction on both ends of our journey. We dozed, watched the scenery, and talked, sometimes about those topics that are best talked about in person. Wanna know what we talked about? Too bad. It’s “not your market” as the North Africans say. 😉

A teammate gave us a ride back to Mytown. I sat in the backseat, feeling a measure of something I couldn’t describe. It wasn’t entirely pleasant or unpleasant. So I just sat with it, pondering. We lunched with teammates, unpacked, and I gave J a mini tour of Mytown, introducing him to a piece of my world. 

It wasn’t until I was preparing for bed that I was able to label what I was feeling as “emotional dissonance.” I was beyond delighted to show J my world in Spain, but watching my worlds mesh was unsettling. Like the world that had felt so close was being replaced by another world that, in new ways, felt closer.

Alaska part 1: Where the bears and the red salmon play

It started in a quiet airport. I was one of a handful going through security. Everyone was that small-town sort of friendly, but that didn’t keep the guards from noticing the water sloshing around in the bottom third of my water bottle. *face palm* That was the second time I’ve done that recently: forgetting to drink my water before marching through security with the confidence of a seasoned traveler… and then returning shame-faced to the end of the line.

So maybe it wasn’t the most suave start to my journey, but I arrived in Anchorage mostly as planned and found the tiny airline that would take me down to the Kenai Peninsula. Tiny, as in, I was one of four travelers. I had never imagined traveling to Alaska, at least not until a friend had invited me up several years ago. But there I was, flying over miles and miles of unpolluted scenery as the sun set.

I stepped outside of the Kenai Municipal Airport to await my friend. It was cold and mostly dark. I was pretty alone, which, after a day of traveling, was pleasant. Pleasant, that is, until I went to toss some trash and saw that the trash can was one of those bear-proof ones.

Bears in an airport? That wasn’t the only alarming thing I would see during my weeklong visit. This was the land in which hearing a snap of a twig while on a walk sent adrenaline surging through one’s veins. The land in which moose were regular roadkill. The land in which vicious brown bears wandered through one’s backyard, right past the swing set.

In the untamed Alaskan outdoors, I began to realize just how soft I’ve become as a city dweller.

My friend arrived at the airport and managed to find me before a bear did, so things ended well for me. The two of us had three years worth of news to catch up on, but we postponed some of it until another time, due to the late hour.

The forecast promised sunshine the next day in a week of mostly rain; so, despite the fact that we were all pretty tired, we knew we had to seize the day. My friend bravely loaded up her six adventurous boys and we hiked part of the Kenai River Trail. Every now and then, we would stop to catch our breath, only to find that due to the scenery, our stops were mostly breathtaking rather than breathgiving. Even the fairytale mushrooms and the blushing fireweed looked so untouched by the world.

Red mushroom on forest floor

We watched bright salmon jumping as they wound their way up a river turquoise with glacier silt. The sunlight caught their rosy backs. The boys splashed around in the river, trying to catch salmon. Even the littlest splashed, letting his boots fill with river water. I dipped my toes in and pulled them back out quickly. The water was icy.

turquoise Kenai River

The next day was nicer than the weather had forecasted, which was wonderful considering that we had train tickets to a glacier park. Again, we headed out: six boys, three adults, lunches, snacks, and DVDs for the trip home.

We had heard the park was a bit of a letdown, and were admittedly pessimistic. However, we only wasted our time fretting. I will say that having a vanilla chai latte with whipped cream for the second day in a row did help our moods considerably. (In fact, I had quite a few of those vanilla chai lattes over the course of the week, always expecting it to be my last chance to get one.) Of course, the latte stop combined with road construction delayed us enough that even the boys were making negative train-missing predictions from the backseat.

Spencer Glacier Park was exciting from the oldest to the youngest. The scenery from the train was gorgeous, even more gorgeous considering that in was inaccessible by car. It felt sort of like luxury scenery, if there is such a thing.

mountains behind river

We took off hiking once we arrived at the park. In just over a mile, we arrived at the foot of a glacier. Stunning. So stunning. And cold. We shivered, even in the sunshine. That didn’t stop the boys from getting a bit wet while rescuing glistening glacial chunks.

glacier with ice chunks floating in river

We almost missed our return train. No excuses. Just pure negligence on our part. But we did make it. On the way home we took a different route in hopes of seeing some bears, but even the beariest trail of the region was bare. Wildlife seemed to be hiding from me. But it couldn’t hide forever…

My November guests

In November, three guests traversed the Atlantic to visit me: my mom, my brother, and my friend. Some of our adventures included:

  • Finding each other at the airport… and managing to convince security that I was not a risk
  • Traipsing around the city as each phone place we had been directed to directed us to someone else
  • Arguing with taxi drivers who were even more stubborn than I
  • Tasting the old medina, literally and figuratively
  • Posing for awkward pictures
  • Sampling camel burgers and a salad that tasted “like donkeys”
  • Wiggling cooked snails out of their shells with wooden toothpicks…and sampling them too
  • Long talks
  • Laughing until we cried
  • Visiting my friends for tea, dinner, or just to say “hi”
  • Tasting uncured olives that pickled our mouths
  • Eating most of our meals standing around in the kitchen
  • Souvenir shopping in the rain
  • Souvenir shopping in the rain again
  • A long train ride in the rain
  • Walking along the bay in the rain
  • Two nights of cold showers
  • Spending a night snuggled in the musty hotel blankets
  • Staying in a concrete hotel room which reverberated with the early morning call to prayer and reading of the Qur’an
  • Crossing the Strait of Gibraltar by ferry only to find that the rain in Spain does not stay mainly on the plain!
  • A long bus ride around many many roundabouts…in the rain
  • A bus break-down which seemed to temporarily mend itself
  • A few days in Spain with friends, church, a birthday party,  an open air market, olives, churros, pastries, cocido, and tapas
  • Goodbyes

Learning to listen

I was yawning between pages of War and Peace. The train’s rumble of metal on metal was soothing after three hours.

As we had moved from city to city, passengers had changed so often that they became a blur of faceless humanity. Across the compartment, someone took a seat facing me, another faceless being. I yawned again.

But then I smelled him. Cigarette smoke. I tried not to wrinkle my nose as I looked at him. Our eyes locked. He blinked, and I looked away.

Him.

What?!

When I had started the trip, I had spent time in prayer. God,  I want to listen to Your voice today. Several times, women had sat down next to me, but most had avoided eye contact. All I had given or received was a smile or maybe a greeting. But now it was a man. I didn’t talk to men unless I had a reason.

Remember the woman at the well? Who talked to her? Was it a man or a woman?

But I can’t talk to him. And my Arabic is horrid. Besides, I will only get myself into trouble… Fine. Okay, but You have to make Your timing really clear.

More than an hour later, he stood up–was he leaving? No, he took the empty seat next to me. I continued to skim through a dry chapter of War and Peace.

Now? But what if I heard You wrong?

Then he stood again. “Can you save my seat for me?” he asked in perfect English.

Wait, he speaks English? 

It was only a few minutes before he drifted back to his reserved seat, bringing along a cloud of cigarette smoke. This time I did wrinkle my nose. “You’re killing yourself, you know?”

He turned to me. “Do you believe in destiny?” His voice was low and gentle.

A subconscious understanding of where the conversation was headed triggered words that I didn’t hear until they had sprung from my lips: “Are you a fatalist?”

From there, our conversation careened down a different path than he had intended. But it was exactly the path that God had intended.

I doubt I will ever see him again. But it really doesn’t matter. What matters is that I am learning to listen to God’s voice.

Too many hours on a train

I find that when I am forced to be inactive for a length of time, I begin to wonder things I normally don’t take time to think about.

Such as:

Is it only those with rushed, complicated lives that can appreciate the simple? Can those who are simple truly appreciate their simplicity when they’ve never experienced anything different? So then, can simplicity only be fully appreciated by those who don’t have it? And can the complicated life ever go back to being simple or does it always carry its baggage of experience with it? Can the process of losing simplicity ever be reversed? In short, can one both know and appreciate their own simplicity?